A free handbook for anyone buying physical gold. What fineness actually costs you, why the brand on the bar matters, how storage really works, and where your money goes between spot price and the bar in your hand. No registration, no email required.
What this book is
Gold is the easiest precious metal to buy and one of the easiest to overpay for, because the price everyone quotes — spot — is not a price anyone can actually transact at. The gap between spot and what you pay is where the entire retail industry lives, and almost nobody explains it to you before you buy.
This is a buyer’s handbook, not investment advice. It does not tell you gold will rise. It explains the mechanics so you can judge an offer on your own.
Chapter 1
What you are actually buying
Investment gold is measured in troy ounces, not ordinary ounces. One troy ounce is 31.1034768 grams — about 10% heavier than the ounce on a kitchen scale. Every spot quote you see is per troy ounce.
Purity is quoted as fineness, in parts per thousand. Investment-grade bullion is at minimum 995 fine (99.5% gold), and most modern bars and rounds are 999.9 — four nines. The remainder is not filler in a dishonest sense; it is simply what the refining process leaves.
| Term | What it means |
|---|---|
| Spot | The reference price per troy ounce. Not a price you can buy at |
| Premium | What you pay over spot — fabrication, distribution and dealer margin |
| Bid / buy-back | What a dealer will pay you. Usually below spot |
| Fineness | Purity per thousand. 999.9 = 99.99% gold |
| Good Delivery | The LBMA standard for large wholesale bars |
A one-gram bar and a one-kilo bar contain the same metal per gram and cost wildly different amounts per gram. That is chapter four.
Chapter 2
Fineness, and where it stops mattering
Above 995 fine, extra purity buys you very little in value terms. A 999.9 bar is not meaningfully “better gold” than a 999 bar for a buyer holding metal — the gold content is what you own, and both are priced on fine gold weight.
Where fineness matters absolutely is eligibility. If metal is going into a US retirement account, it must meet minimum fineness or the purchase is treated as a distribution — taxable, with a penalty under 59½. Gold must be 995 or better; silver 999; platinum and palladium 9995. American Eagles are the notable exception, accepted despite being 916.7 fine because they are official US Mint product.
Miss the fineness threshold by a fraction and the entire purchase can be deemed a distribution. This is the one place where a decimal point is worth real money.
Raw or unrefined gold — doré, placer, nuggets — fails every one of these tests. Doré typically runs 50–95% gold depending on the deposit, and trades at a discount to spot because whoever buys it takes on the refining cost and risk. It is a producer’s product, not a saver’s.
Chapter 3
Refiners, assay, and why the brand on the bar matters
Two bars of identical weight and fineness are not equally liquid. The one stamped by a recognised refiner sells faster and closer to spot, because the next buyer does not have to prove it.
The London Bullion Market Association maintains the Good Delivery list. Getting on it is not a formality: a refiner needs at least five years in existence, three years refining that metal, annual gold production of at least 10 tonnes, and tangible net worth of at least £15 million. That is why the list is short and why the names on it carry weight.
Reputable refiners also run origin and responsible-sourcing checks before metal reaches the furnace, under the OECD due diligence framework and the LBMA’s Responsible Gold Guidance. Good Delivery refiners currently declare country of origin annually, moving to monthly reporting through the LBMA’s Gold Bar Integrity database.
What should come with a bar
- A serial number stamped on the bar
- An assay certificate matching that serial
- The refiner’s mark and stated fineness
- Tamper-evident packaging, on smaller bars, that you do not break without reason
Breaking a sealed assay card can cost you on resale. If you want to handle the metal, buy something you are content to hold outside its packaging.
Chapter 4
Where the money actually goes
This is the chapter that matters most and the one most gold sellers skip.
You buy above spot and you sell below it. The round trip is the cost of owning physical metal, and it is paid the moment you transact — not at some future date.
Premiums scale against you on small units
Fabricating a one-gram bar costs almost as much as fabricating a ten-gram bar. That cost is spread over far less metal, so the premium per gram on tiny units is dramatically higher. Buyers who accumulate in very small pieces pay a fabrication tax on every one.
| What you buy | Premium per gram | Liquidity |
|---|---|---|
| Very small bars and fractional coins | Highest | Easy to sell, expensive to buy |
| Standard coins and mid-size bars | Moderate | Deepest retail market |
| Kilo bars | Lowest | Fewer retail buyers, best rate per gram |
| Numismatic / collectible coins | Very high, and opaque | Priced on rarity, not metal |
The numismatic trap
The most common way retail buyers lose money in gold is being steered from bullion into “rare” or “collectible” coins. Bullion premiums are visible and comparable — you can check spot yourself. Numismatic premiums are not, because the price rests on rarity and grade rather than on metal content.
If someone selling you gold changes the subject from metal content to collectability, they have moved you from a market you can price into one you cannot.
There is a legitimate collector market for rare coins. It is not the same activity as buying gold, and it should never be sold to you as though it were.
Chapter 5
Storage: the word that decides who owns it
Three arrangements are commonly offered and they are not variations of the same thing.
| Arrangement | What you own | Risk |
|---|---|---|
| Allocated | Specific, serial-numbered bars held in your name | Lowest — the metal is yours, not the custodian’s |
| Unallocated / pooled | A claim against the provider’s stock | You are an unsecured creditor if they fail |
| Home storage | Whatever you can physically protect | Theft, insurance gaps, and disqualification for retirement accounts |
For retirement accounts specifically, the metal must be held by a bank or an IRS-approved non-bank trustee. Taking personal possession of metal held in a retirement account has been treated as a taxable distribution, and “home storage” arrangements marketed as a workaround are the classic disqualifier in this corner of the market.
Where allocated storage is offered, ask three questions: are the bars serial-numbered to me, is the vault independently audited, and is the metal insured and segregated from the provider’s own stock? Vague answers to any of them mean pooled, whatever the brochure says.
Chapter 6
How to tell real from fake
Gold is unusually easy to test because its density is extreme — far higher than almost anything used to fake it.
- Weigh and measure it. Gold is roughly 19.3 g/cm³. A bar of the correct dimensions that is light is not gold.
- Check the stamp and serial against the assay card. Mismatches are the commonest giveaway.
- A magnet tells you little. Gold is not magnetic, but neither are most fakes. A magnet only catches the crude attempts.
- Tungsten is the serious counterfeit because its density is close to gold’s. Density alone will not catch a tungsten-cored bar; ultrasound or a conductivity test will.
- Buy small bars sealed. The packaging is part of the verification.
- Prefer recognised refiners. Most of your protection is in provenance, not testing.
Chapter 7
How buyers lose money in gold
- Accumulating in tiny units. Paying the fabrication premium repeatedly.
- Being switched into numismatics. Leaving a market you can price for one you cannot.
- Ignoring the buy-back spread. Ask what the dealer will pay you today, before you buy.
- Unallocated storage described as allocated. You are a creditor and do not know it.
- Breaking assay packaging. Reduces resale value for no gain.
- Buying on urgency. Gold has been here a long time. So has next week.
- Taking possession of retirement-account metal. A tax event dressed up as convenience.
Chapter 8
The buyer’s checklist
- Fine gold weight in grams, and the fineness
- Refiner name and serial number
- Assay certificate matching that serial
- Total price, and that price expressed as a premium over spot
- The dealer’s buy-back price today
- If stored: allocated or pooled, audited by whom, insured to what value
- If for a retirement account: which custodian, which depository
Ask the buy-back question before you buy. The answer tells you the real cost of the trade, and how a seller reacts to being asked tells you the rest.
Where to go next
MultiGen’s gold division is in development and not open. When it opens it will apply the same standard as the emerald division: refiner, assay, fineness and origin stated before purchase. In the meantime this handbook is free and ungated, as is the emerald handbook and the full library.
Questions: 888-296-4870, Monday to Friday, 9am–6pm Central.
This handbook is educational. It is not investment advice, not a recommendation to buy gold, and not an offer of participation in any venture. Nothing here should be read as a claim that gold will appreciate.
Prefer it in print? This handbook and the other three are collected and expanded in The Resource Handbook — 27 chapters, 61 pages, paperback $19.99. Everything here stays free online either way.
